Pilaf and Rice Dishes

Ikura Gunkan

Gunkan was invented in Tokyo in the 1940s to solve one specific problem: roe and sea urchin cannot be laid on nigiri, they simply run off. So the rice was belted with a strip of nori standing proud of it like a gunwale — and the shape does look like a little ship, which is where the name comes from.

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Ikura Gunkan — the finished dish
Prep
20 min
Total
20 min
Servings
4
Level
Medium
Per serving
180 kcal

Ingredients

  • What to use instead

    Salmon roe costs more than masago, but the eggs are bigger and the wall fills faster. Either way 120 g is enough for 12 gunkan.

Makes: 12 gunkan

Method

  1. Step 1: Cut the nori into strips

    Cut each sheet of nori lengthways into six strips about 3 cm wide. Use dry scissors: moisture from your hands makes nori flexible, and it has to stay stiff enough to hold the wall up.

  2. Step 2: Shape the rice

    With a wet hand take 20 g of rice and press it into a firm oval about 2 cm tall. Press a little harder than for nigiri: this rice has to carry a wall and not slump under the weight of the roe.

  3. Step 3: Belt it with nori

    Wrap the oval in a strip of nori, shiny side out, so it stands 5–7 mm above the rice. That lip is what the roe sits in. Stick the end of the strip down with a couple of crushed grains of rice.

  4. Step 4: Add the wasabi underneath

    If you like heat, spread a thin film of wasabi directly on the rice inside the wall. On top it would mix into the roe and kill its flavour; underneath it only sharpens it.

  5. Step 5: Fill with roe

    Spoon the roe in with a teaspoon, filling the wall slightly proud. Do not press: the eggs should stay whole and glossy, and crushed ones turn a gunkan into a wet smear.

  6. Step 6: Serve at once

    Gunkan is eaten within minutes of being built. The nori takes up moisture from both the rice and the roe, and the wall that stood a minute ago simply subsides.

Tips & variations

  • Tip

    Build them three or four at a time and serve them straight away rather than making all twelve first. These are the one sushi that loses its shape while you watch.

  • Variation

    The wall holds any filling that will not sit still: a spicy salmon mixture, crab salad with mayonnaise, sweetcorn with mayonnaise, natto. In Japan a sweetcorn gunkan is a children's classic.

  • Swap

    Salmon roe costs more than masago, but the eggs are bigger and the wall fills faster. Either way 120 g is enough for 12 gunkan.

  • Storage

    Not kept at all. The roe can sit in the fridge and the rice under a cloth, but an assembled gunkan lives less than half an hour.

  • Tip

    The strip of nori should be exactly 3 cm. Narrower will not hold the roe; wider curls inward under its own weight and gets in the way of the spoon.

Nutrition

Approximate nutrition per serving and for the whole dish
1 serving Whole dish 4 servings
Energy180 kcal720 kcal
Protein9 g36 g
Fat4 g16 g
Carbohydrates26 g104 g

Approximate values calculated from standard ingredient data.

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