Sauces

Cheese Sauce

Cheese sauce splits for one reason: the cheese went into a boiling base. Above 80 °C the cheese proteins tighten and squeeze the fat out, and instead of a velvet sauce you get curds sitting in an oily puddle. So the béchamel comes off the heat, and the residual warmth melts the cheese.

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Cheese Sauce — the finished dish
Prep
5 min
Cook
15 min
Total
20 min
Servings
6
Level
Easy
Per serving
265 kcal

Ingredients

  • What to use instead

    Gruyère, Gouda or a mix works in place of cheddar. Parmesan alone does not: it is too dry and turns the sauce gritty.

Makes: about 600 ml

Method

  1. Step 1: Grate the cheese yourself

    Bagged grated cheese is dusted with starch to stop it clumping; it melts sluggishly and leaves a slight sandiness. Grate a block on the coarse side.

  2. Step 2: Make the roux

    Melt the butter, add the flour and stir for 2 minutes over medium heat, keeping it pale.

  3. Step 3: Add the milk in stages

    Whisk in the warm milk in three additions, smoothing each one completely. The first will give a very stiff paste, which is exactly right.

  4. Step 4: Cook the base out

    Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring. The starch has to swell fully or you will taste the flour.

  5. Step 5: Off the heat, then the cheese

    Take the pan off the hob and stir the cheese in by the handful, letting each one disappear. The béchamel is around 80 °C now — hot enough to melt cheddar, cool enough not to break it.

  6. Step 6: Season

    Add the mustard, smoked paprika, nutmeg, salt and pepper. The acidity in the mustard also helps keep the cheese proteins loose and smooth.

  7. Step 7: Adjust the thickness

    Loosen with milk to the consistency you want, remembering that it thickens as you watch: both the starch and the cheese tighten as it cools.

Tips & variations

  • Tip

    If it does turn grainy, take it off the heat, add 2 spoonfuls of cold milk and blitz with a stick blender — that usually brings the texture back.

  • Swap

    Gruyère, Gouda or a mix works in place of cheddar. Parmesan alone does not: it is too dry and turns the sauce gritty.

  • Variation

    For nachos, loosen the sauce with another 100 ml of milk and add a teaspoon of paprika with a pinch of chilli — it should run off a chip easily.

  • Storage

    Three days in the fridge. Reheat only over low heat with a few spoonfuls of milk; a microwave splits it almost every time.

Nutrition

Approximate nutrition per serving and for the whole dish
1 serving Whole dish 6 servings
Energy265 kcal1,590 kcal
Protein10 g60 g
Fat19 g114 g
Carbohydrates12 g72 g

Approximate values calculated from standard ingredient data.

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