Sauces

Basil Pesto

Mortar versus blender is not an aesthetic argument in pesto. A blade tears the leaves and heats the mass, so the basil oxidises and darkens within minutes, while fast whipping pushes the bitter polyphenols out of the olive oil. Grinding does the opposite: it presses the essential oils out of the leaves and keeps the sauce green.

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Basil Pesto — the finished dish
Prep
15 min
Cook
3 min
Total
18 min
Servings
4
Level
Easy
Per serving
330 kcal

Ingredients

  • What to use instead

    Walnuts or almonds work in place of pine nuts. The flavour is denser and a little more tannic — add half a spoonful more oil.

Makes: about 250 ml

Method

  1. Step 1: Toast the pine nuts

    Warm them in a dry pan for 3 minutes until fragrant, shaking constantly. They go from pale to burnt in seconds, so do not walk away.

  2. Step 2: Start with the garlic

    Pound the garlic with the salt to a paste. The salt crystals tear the cells open and dry the mass slightly, so the paste comes out even.

  3. Step 3: Add the basil in handfuls

    Work the leaves against the side of the mortar in circles rather than hammering them. Crushed leaves release aroma; torn leaves release the grassy bitterness instead.

  4. Step 4: Grind in the nuts

    Pound the pine nuts into a creamy mass. Their fat picks up the volatile basil oils and holds the aroma in the sauce.

  5. Step 5: Fold in the cheese

    Stir through the Parmesan and Pecorino. Pecorino is saltier and sharper, so go carefully with any extra salt from here.

  6. Step 6: Add the oil

    Pour in the olive oil in a thin stream, stirring from the bottom up with a spoon. Pesto should stay thick and slightly grainy, not smooth like a purée.

  7. Step 7: Dress the pasta

    Never cook pesto. Toss it with hot pasta in a bowl along with 2–3 spoonfuls of the cooking water: the starch binds the oil and the sauce clings to every strand.

Tips & variations

  • Tip

    If you do use a blender, chill the bowl and the leaves, pulse in two-second bursts and add the oil last so nothing has time to warm up.

  • Swap

    Walnuts or almonds work in place of pine nuts. The flavour is denser and a little more tannic — add half a spoonful more oil.

  • Variation

    To keep pesto bright for several days, blanch the leaves for 10 seconds and plunge them into iced water; that deactivates the browning enzyme.

  • Storage

    Five days in the fridge under a layer of oil that seals it from the air, or frozen in ice cube trays for up to 3 months.

Nutrition

Approximate nutrition per serving and for the whole dish
1 serving Whole dish 4 servings
Energy330 kcal1,320 kcal
Protein6 g24 g
Fat33 g132 g
Carbohydrates3 g12 g

Approximate values calculated from standard ingredient data.

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